Feels Like a Different Country - Hue

 An hour flight from Hanoi and we arrived in the city of Hue.  Such a contrast with busy streets but yet a peacefulness about it.  The roads are still busy but nothing compared to Hanoi - in fact they actually drive in the lanes and one day a car stopped for me.  Sometimes they even stop for red lights! You can almost walk down the sidewalk as there are spaces between the motorbikes parked there.  Our tour leader says it is a very safe city and often referred to as a sleepy city where things shut down early.  Not sure about the sleepy part as there was lots of music from places very close to our hotel. Oh and coffee shops - everywhere! Apparently the coffee treat here is salt coffee. Might be missing that one.

The city is divided by the Perfume River.  There is a lovely boardwalk along the river and at night it looks pretty spectacular as the bridge is lit in many different colors.

Hue is about history.  The first stop on the historical tour is the Imperial Citadel.  A massive fortress - 500 hectares, of 3 rings of walls, it was home to the Nguyen Dynasty.  Building began in 1802 and took many years to complete.  Much of it was destroyed during the war and some has been repaired.  It is easy to imagine its beauty from the past.  Gates, residences, gardens, and a beautiful theatre are there for enjoyment.

The symbol stands for longevity 

Inside the theatre

Buddhism is important in this city as well as lots of other spots in Vietnam.  One of the most famous pagodas in Vietnam is the Thien Mu Pagoda along the banks of the Perfume River.  It is beautiful as is the temple attached to it.  Part of the fame at this complex is the original blue car that a young monk drove on the streets of Saigon during the war.  He parked, got out of the car, calmly sat down and lit himself on fire in an effort to change people’s minds about the war.  Apparently it was a turning point in the war.

Another historical site was a visit to the Tu Duc Tombs the popular fourth king of the dynasty was buried.  As in other burials, no one knows for sure where he is buried on the site in an effort to prevent vandalism.  To ensure this, a select group of Mandarins (special advisors to the King), carried the body while blind folded and then committed suicide after.

Besides history, we enjoyed some other activities.  The rickshaw ride through the city was a hit with everyone.  These guys are amazing as they pedalled us through the streets. They make about $10 for the hour which is equivalent to a factory worker’s wage for an 8 hour day.  

A visit to an NGO, Lavin Home was special.  This home has a number of deaf adults working to make paper flowers which are very popular in Vietnam.  After learning a few sign language words, which are different than our ASL, we had a chance to make our own paper flower, using the sign language word for help a lot!  

Food has been fabulous in Hue.  We have experienced a wide variety but all in private homes where people were so willing to share an out their life.   Our first evening out was to visit the home of a descent of the Mandarin who worked for the Royal Dynasty.  The home had been virtually destroyed during the war but in 2020, the owner returned to restore it.  A magical place that pictures don’t do justice to.  We heard a bit about his family and life before enjoying unbelievable meal - food, service and ambience were over the top.  The wood work and the gardens were amazing.

Our menu was written on a fan.

Shrimp and spring rolls on the pineapple lantern and a mixed salad

Fish 

Cooking our beef on a tile at the table

Shrimp and crab on a rice paper round

Inside the home

 On a slower day we had a chance to visit an incense making village - a very colourful place.  Besides incense they make a special conical hat which has a cut out picture that can only be seen when a light is shiny through it.

The village was shop after shop of colourful incense

Making the incense sticks.

The special conical hat called a poem hat

Labour intensive

Who knew there were different ways to wear the hat? Young women wear it with eyes covered so they are not appearing to be flirting

There has been no shortage of food on our trip - it could be advertised as a food tour!  We visited a garden home in a small village and had a wonderful presentation about his home and his life from the owner.  He was so entertaining, open and willing to share. His grandfather had been a Mandarin for the king. At 83, he is still very active - walks daily and works daily in his garden.  We started with tea but then had to have a sip of rice wine to celebrate his birthday before sitting  down to yet one more delicious meal.

Ginger tea to start

Do your best

Rice wine - the best so far

All the food is jackfruit and the home can be taken apart

Our host and his wife who was our chef

In contrast, that evening half of us visited a small local home close to the hotel.  The family runs a shop serving food from 7 to 11 but do home cooked meals for guides and their groups. The young fellow and his mom were delightful as he shared lots about the family and life but in a completely different home - very simple and typical Hue home. The food was absolutely wonderful.  A highlight was the arrival of some of the cousins - very young, loud and excited.  Their singing was delightful.

Although they learn English in school there is little opportunity for speaking and so chances to talk to tourists is a chance to practice their English

The family kitchen

The family altar to honor ancestors

Outside altars to honor those who died in the war with no family left to honor them

Living room  - normally the metal table and red plastic chairs would not be there

Some reflections on the people of Vietnam. We have now been welcomed into 4 different homes.  The economic status might be different in all but the beliefs, values and ideas about life, family and country are all the same! They are so open and want to share about themselves and their country. We heard them really emphasize respect for all but also demonstrate it.  Family is important and they talk fondly of family members past and present - ancestors continue to be honoured. Our hosts talked about the war but with no bitterness or blame.  They are all very proud of their country and talk about unity and one country.  They present as calm, funny, caring and genuine people - we could use more of this culture in the world today!

We heard this a lot from the men we visited in their homes but on a daily basis we look forward to the stories that our tour leader, Truong, tells us. We see and hear the same wonderful values and beliefs from her.  She willing shares about her family, speaks proudly of her country, speaks about everyone with respect, especially her elders and has a wealth of stories to share that she has taken the time to learn from others especially elders.