Mexico City - Part 2

There is something about this city that just captures your interest and of course with the Day of the Dead activities it is even more colourful, fun and yes chaotic but in a good way.

Following the busy days learning and participating in the Day of the Dead activities, it was time for a less hectic activity and the Hop On Hop Off bus was perfect. Seeing the city from the open level of the bus gave a new view.  While one needed to duck from time to time to avoid being hit by wires and trees the experience was relaxing.  We were amazed at how quickly the decorations were being cleared from the square but some still remained on Reforma.

The routes took us through the historic centre, Reforma and Polanco.  The traffic was almost normal and only one delay occurred during our tour.

 

One of the unique stops in Mexico City was to visit a Pulquria.  Now pulque is a fermented alcoholic beverage made from the sap of the agave plant.  I thought it was a higher alcohol content but google says it is only about 8%.  It can be served plain or mixed with fruit juices.  No question, the pulquria is not a typical tourist stop but our guides that day were anxious for us to try.  It was fun.  I decided to try the sample flight.  Must admit I liked some better than others.

Close to our hotel was a historic gem in Mexico City.  Tio Pepe is one of the oldest cantinas in Mexico City.  It is small cantina that is clearly proud of the past history, it dates back to 1869 and was a perfect stop for an afternoon beer or Marguerite. The beautifully preserved decor includes a ornate ceiling and a wooden bar that was imported from France.  As AI says, this is more than a cantina, it is an experience!

And then it was time to say good bye to Mexico City with a farewell dinner at a little gem that I found.  The service and food were excellent at Testal Restuarant.

The Day of the Dead Finished for Another Yesr

 Nov 2 was the actual official Day of the Dead!  We joined another tour group to visit a cemetery.  Originally we were going to one in the city however things changed dramatically when the parade date changed.  Travel means  slowing down, taking deep breaths and being flexible! In the end we were to visit the largest and most famous cemetery, Mixquic.  More about that later.

On our way the group stopped for a lunch at a mall.  Right at the front was a brand new Tim Horton’s - our small group could not resist so as others headed off to the buffet, we enjoyed Tim sandwiches, Mexico style.  The doughnuts were the same but my avocado, BBQ beef sandwich with fries was not a Canadian menu item - it should be as it was delicious.

Fed, we now continued to the cemetery.  Because of the traffic, it took over two hours. As we arrived the bus count was high but we still did not understand the magnitude of the event until we started walking towards it.  Soon the street turned into a carnival with games of chance, food, things to buy, music and many people.  

A left turn and we were on our way to the church or more precisely 4 churches and the cemetery. From there on it was wall to wall people.  We shuffled our way through the church before heading into the cemetery area.  Here we pushed, shoved and stumbled among the graves.

As part of the tradition people elaborately decorated the graves of their deceased. It became clear why the flower market was so busy as the graves were covered in marigolds and other beautiful arrangements.  Ornate displays, special treats and candles adorned the graves.  It is absolutely a miracle that it does not go up in flames with the thousands of people filing through it.  We saw just a small portion before pushing our way out.

On the Day of the Dead, families visit cemeteries to cleaned and decorate the graves to welcome the spirits of their deceased loved ones.  The flowers and candles help guide the spirits so they can find their way.  Other traditions include holding vigils late into the night, sharing meals and playing music all in an effort to turn it into a place of celebration, joy and remembrance.

From a visitor’s point of view it seems to have turned the whole celebration into a chaotic tourist trap for both foreigners and nationals.  The hundreds of people there certainly impede on the ability to hold vigils.  You can’t help but wonder how the local people feel about this crowded chaotic event.  I asked our guide how many people he thought would attend - he figured 300-400,000.  I’m betting more.  We were leaving at 8 and the crowds were still flooding in!