Enjoying the Last of Haida Gwaii

 Our last full day was devoted to time at the Haida Heritage Cultural Centre.  Here we had a lovely tour by a young Haida woman.  Her Haida name, Dang Gid, means Smiles a lot.  She provided us with much more information about the culture and shared her own stories.  Photos are only allowed in the entrance so minimal shots from here.

We had gone by the centre on the boat on the first day and now had a view of the water from the shore.  And of course the view was again fantastic.  Another picnic was enjoyed on the shores with salmon for our buns provided by Roberta, our driver.

Some final shots from around Queen Charlotte or Daajing Giids.

In front of the RCMP building

School District Office

And then it was time to board the bus and head across the ferry for the airport.  

With time to spare, Roberta, our bus driver decided to show us a few sites of Sandspit.  In a very impromptu drive the horn was blaring as she discovered Kiefer’s stag party.  Kiefer was a Haida contestant on Big Brother Canada last year.  The horn was not enough as we pulled over.  He was a great sport and interrupted his golf game for a photo op. Heck had we been there on Sunday we were all invited to the wedding.

Final stop, the big salmon in Sandspit and one last group photo taken by Roberta, the photographer, driver, guide and general jack of all trades.

Unfortunately I had to wait until returning home to complete the last two posts due to technical difficulties.  That gave me an opportunity to reflect on the trip.  It is an amazing place of beauty.  We were disappointed to not visit Ninstints as it is the only place where there are existing poles in their natural environment and the trip promised the chance to see lots of birds and mammals.  But when travelling there is no control of the weather.  We met amazing people - James, Byrd, Glen, Rowan, Smiles a Lot, Tracy, Anna, Sue who work and live there. The Haida people involved in tourism are passionate about their culture and their land.  Although I was not allowed to take pictures in the museum, no one said anything about writing down quotes.  There were so many that caught my intention that I could still be there writing but will close this trip with the following quote:

"Preservation is what we do to berries in jam jars and salmon in cans.  Books and recordings can preserve languages but only people can keep them alive."  Nora Marks and Richard Dauenhauer, Tlingell, 1996.

And we did meet some of those people that are keeping it alive.  Haawa!

Brilliant Blues

 When you look at pictures you can only marvel at the absolute brilliant blues of the sky and water.  Along with those colors came hot weather.  How lucky could we get!  Unfortunately hot weather means increased northwestern winds which have a major impact on the waters.  We were disappointed that our trip to the very south and the UNESCO site of Ninstints, was cancelled.  While the waters in the inlet looked calm, one could tell the winds were high as you walked north on the beach.  I was scratching sand out of my head all evening.

We enjoyed a walk along the Golden Spruce Trail and learned more about the various trees and their meaning for the Haida.  The trail has lovely markers along the way that recognize very important things to the Haida, especially nature.

At the end of the trail you look over the river to a small empty spot that was at one time home to a golden spruce.  The log was never removed and now the forest is beginning to cover it up and fill in the spot.  The story is far too long but this spruce was one of a kind.  It was cut down by hand by an individual - the reason uncertain.  Today there are 6 saplings in undisclosed locations around the island and a tree from a grafting located by the church in Port Clements.

The empty spot across the river is where the Golden Spruce stood.

The graphed Golden Spruce'

The Port Clements museum is small with a focus on logging and many things from the past.  Whoops we remembered too many of those things and even have some!

There is always time for shopping and we visited a couple of local artisans in Tlell.  The house below was constructed from a tree stump and inside is completely finished and very cool in the heat.  The local artist that we visited did this and other interesting wood carvings.  Across the road was another shop with a Tlell version of stone circles.

The house is created from a tree stump

Inside the tree stump house

Long houses were traditional homes for the Haida.  One large room would hold several families.  They were accessed through a small oval door in the front which was defence from enemies.  The fire pit in the centre provided warmth and cooking and had a hole above to let out smoke.

The beaches are so beautiful.  We managed to spend a few hours at Jungle beach, enjoying the views, the water, walks, beach combing and a picnic!

The waves indicating why we weren't on our trip to Ninstints

Another unbelievable stop was at Halibut Bight.  How can the views get any better than this?

A group shot - thanks Roberta

All guide books tell you not to miss the balance rock.  One huge boulder balanced on the beach.  “You break it you buy it!”  Don’t think there was any danger in us moving this beauty.

Another popular site is St Mary’s Spring.  The locals say if you drink it you will return to Haida Gwaii.  We obeyed the signs saying not drinkable but did dab a little at the corner of our mouths.

And what better way to end a day than with freshly caught and cooked crab from the owner of the motel.  A totally awesome treat before our food arrived!